Regine Normann described how they took the church apart, in her novel “Eiler Hundevart. Quote, “He got his toolkit from the Priest’s quarters and carried it under his arm over to the church, located close to the steep mountain” Could it be possible that the “mountain” she is talking about is the hill by the church?
Another factor, that may not be commonly known, is that in 1658, a weapon- and church bell storage room was built as an addition to the church (see below).
It is very worth while taking a tour of the old Malnes Graveyard. The beautiful grave stones that are still standing, tell the story of years gone by…..
| 
|
ANCIENT FINDINGS
The oldest reliable trace of settlement in Hovden, goes back to early Iron age, or shortly after the birth of Christ.
In Malnes, it proves to be later, possibly after 600 AD. However, findings of tools, including a pointed end of a sword and an axe made of stone - go back thousands of years. In addition, thirty four gravesites have been registered in Hovden. Amongst them, one of a woman, found by archeologist Mr. Th.Winter when he passed through the area in 1875. He said (Quote), “There have been many more sites here, but they were destroyed when clearing land”.
In Malnes, only two gravesites have been found. At the time of discovery, it was midsummer and the grass was too tall for further investigation.
Later, as they dug ditches in the Malnes marshland, they found a skeleton of a grown male. If we connect that discovery to the decorative bronze piece found in Hovden, this could have come from Ireland during the Viking age. Maybe the head chief joined the “Håløyg” army and followed Magnus Barføtt on his Vesterveg warfare?
| 
|
THE ORIGIN OF SETTLEMENT NAMES
According to history we see evidence of these names as early as the 14th and 15th century. Malnes, where the church was standing, gave its name to the entire parish. Hovden –known as Marsholmen.
This name, likely means – the low isle (of marslig – old word for low). This is the area we now call Holmen or Buholmen. Even in the 14 century, this area was well established as a fishing community, particularly known for “rav” (amber) and “rekling” (jerked flounder or halibut). It is said that at the end of the 15th century,
| 
|
they already had 20“rorbuer” (fisherman’s cabins). These were prosperous years for spring and summer fisheries and people came from afar to join the places that were within short rowing distance to the good fishing areas.
Entering the 16th century, the use of different and bigger boats, Jekter (Sailing vessels), became common on Marsholmen. However, the docking area was not suited for larger boats.
The regional judge of Lofoten and Vesterålen, writes in his travel summary of the late 15th century, (Quote) “It is extremely difficult to enter this area, whether it is due to storms, currents or undercurrents.
The big and dangerous waves that hits against the rugged shoreline, sounds like thunder and turns the ocean into a foaming, giant substance.”
| 
|
One can only presume this Danish guy entered Hovden on a very stormy day, when heavy waves swept rocks from the ocean floor on their way to shore, thereby creating an amazing scene of foaming water. Maybe it was the ocean’s wild and roaring presence at this very tip of the peninsula, “Malneshalvøya” that inspired the name Malnes? Most likely, however, it comes from the name “mol”, which means a heap of gravel along a beach. Hovden, in turn, means, a very steep, rocky shore, rising from the background landscape, as a shield against the ocean.
ANCIENT TIMES
Both Malnes and Hovden were considered royal property, or owned by the reigning king, until the 18th century. Many of the settlers in the 16th, 17th and into the 18th century were rural police and judges, men with influence in the countryside. For instance, Mr. Hans Basen, a policeman and captain, lived in Malnes from 1610 to 1700. Also residing in Hovden was the head of the Coast Guard, 2nd section (old military term). The last well-known person mentioned to live in Hovden was Carsten Pedersen, a judge by profession.
From 1688 and towards the 17th century, Hovden was deserted and Malnes likewise, from 1701-1710. The obvious reason was several “dry spells” in economy, both within the fishing and farming communities. The entire region suffered the consequence and numerous people died of hunger.
In 1567, 2 settlers and 5 homesteaders occupied the area of Holmen. This leads us to believe that people lived in Hovden and Litt-Hovden as well (Groundhouff 1610). At the planning stages of constructing the roadway down to the docking area, they used some kind of piping, named “krittpipe”. These can be traced as commonly used pipes in the 16th and 17th century.
| 
|
By 1567, Malnes only had one settler. The same was counted in 1723, and at that time historic information tells us: (Quote). “This settlement has no forest, no seter (Norwegian cottage used for cattle through the summer) and no corn mill. Easy access to fishing, but difficult to dock due to harsh weather conditions. Periods of sunshine are scarce and it was very hard to transport lumber by boat. Seedlings, 2 skpp(old measure), crop: 5skpp. One horse, six cows, 9 sheep, and 9 goats.”
| 
|
In 1732, history repeats this info on Hofden and Marsholmen: 2 settlers, no forest,no seter or corn mill. However, Mr. Hartvig Andersen owned a grinder. The location is not mentioned, but likely it would be in Røsshagan or Hesten. Probably, both Malnes and Hovden residents got their corn milled at this location.
Good sunny periods – sandy and very dry, but flourish every year as an isle. Whatever that means? Magnar Hanssen remembers (Quote)” Coastguard crews were doing repairs on Heimgårdskaia (a docking area) while I was growing up. One of the crew leaders, Charles Phil, said this about Heimgårdsstøa”. (Quote), “Sand gets into the area every spring, and out again every the fall. This is a certain sign of spring and fall. Seeds, 4 skpp (old measuring term) and 4 skpp. Crop,1 sack. One horse, eight cows, 3 young cows, 13 sheep and 13 goats. Easy access to fishing”
| 
|
As time periods elapses, names change and disappear. By 1832, the name Marsholmen was no longer in use. In addition, the name Hovden, officially become common for the entire area of Malnes. However, people living there kept using the separate names. Today, we acknowledge that the name Malnes has become the official name of Malnes Church and Malnes Chapel, despite the fact that both buildings are located within the area of Eidet.
HOVDEN AS A TRADING POST
In the 1660’s there were four people in Vesterålen, who were residents of Bergen, and thereby had the right to trade. One was a captain, Mr.Laurits Reinholdssøn, Hovden. It is likely that Laurits initiated trade in Hovden.
Laurits was also a lease holder and functioned as a local policeman, in addition to doing the bookkeeping for Malnes Church. In 1650, he was in charge of getting the old and damaged chandelier, refurbished for the church. He bought seven “tylfter” (old measure) of lumber from Bergen, and used it for new siding.
The church still lacked both weapon storage and a house for the Perish Clerk, “Klokkehus”. In 1658, he organized the construction of both, and hired Peder
| 
|
Sinderssøm to do the job. There is no doubt that Laurits was very well off. In 1659, Malnes Church had a debt to him of 55.5 “riksdaler” (old term for money).
The next retailer mentioned at this point in history, was shipmaster, Mr. Peder Henriksen Bruun, from Børøya, Hadsel. In 1771, he was licensed to trade within farming and also to manage an Inn (Bed and Breakfast) in Kvitnes, Hadsel.
In return, he was to pay 10 “riksdaler”(old term for money) to the reigning king’s fund. Peder’s son, Henrik Dinclo Bruun, took over his father’s business in 1802 and managed the company until he died in 1825. His widow, Anne Malene Bruun, inherited the business.
However, it was another widow, former wife of Mr. Hans Ferner, who managed Bruuns Handel in Hovden from 1801.
| 
|
It was during the 1800’s that Hovden excelled as a trading post. In 1836, Mr. Erich Leganger Coldevin, a resident of Melbu who was in charge of a local Inn, took over Bruun’s Handel in Hovden after negotiating a deal with Anne Malene Bruun.
A few years later he also bought half of Hovden, which at the time was divided into two sections of land. However, in 1828, Mr. Job Desingthun Offerson, gained the royal rights to the other half. Sadly, Mr. Coldevin perished on a trip to Breistrand, where he managed his trading company. This gave Job the opportunity to claim the entire portion of the land. With this deal he got the rights to Marsholmen, Frugga, Godvika and Lyngøya. Mr. Job Offersen headed the trading in the Hovden area from 1848 – 1861. Earlier on his alleged trading of illegal alcohol got him in trouble and he was fined 10 spd (old term for money) for his activities.
In 1830, he married Birgitte Elisabeth Jørgensen, a widow that had been married to the late Carstein Pedersen, as mentioned before. They had three children, who all died at a very young age. For that reason they took in a foster child, Anton Isaksen, who had come to work for them as a shepherd. Most of today’s “Hovdeværinger” are linked to his gene pool. Anton was not interested in the trading business, but he had a strong desire for the ocean and fishing.
At the early age of 12, he started working on a fishing boat, which was very common at the time. With Job’s help he acquired his own boat at only 18 years of age and became a captain. It is said that Anton inherited valuable silver and fine belongings from Job. Anton married twice and had eleven children.
|
|
PROPERTY OWNERS FIRST DYNASTY
In 1861, Mr. Job Desingthun, sold Hovden to Mr. Johan B.Ellingsen for the sum of 1000 riksdaler. Ellingsen was born on Liland in Ofoten in 1829 and he was apparently related to the famous Ellingsen family of Sortland.
In the fall of 1863, unbelievable amounts of large herring arrived not far from shore. Residents from Gaukværøy to Nyksund, barely needed to get their nets wet to load their boats. Hovden’s new owner placed his nets at Kjeila, right in the inner harbor, and amazingly enough hauled in thousands of mal (old measuring term) of herring. People and boats from the entire country flocked to the area and created and abundance of activity and business.
This fantastic fishery lasted for over a decade. The herring arrived as certain as the change of season, but came to a hault as sudden as it had began. However, there were other fish that had followed the herring and fortunately there was no need to go farther than Havsundet to catch a full load. That is if the halibut did not make a gradual approach. This valuable fish of today was worthless at the time.
| 
|
The fishermen simply killed the halibut and threw it back into the ocean or used it as boat piling (surface to slide their boats into the boathouse). The mysterious ocean, that so often gives our imagination and thoughts, wings, was on its best behavior. It was giving an abundance of wealth and people no longer considered it a lottery to be a part of the fishing industry.
Ellingsen ran the local grocery store and traded herring and other fish. He also sold beer and vine and other alcohol. The estimated amount of alcohol sold in 1865 was 10 barrels! For this Ellingsen was required to pay 40 riksdaler to the community and the welfare assistance fund. In 1874, when the steamboat became commonly used, Ellingsen opened the first post office in Hovden.
In addition, this very talented man had a keen interest in agriculture. He managed his land into a model farm and cultivated Sandmyra. Even today we can see part of the old trench work done in the area. At its peak he owned a very large live-stock including horses (it is told his wife had her own riding horses).
He owned 8 cows, 1 bull, two young cattle, 26 sheep and 4 hens. 1.5 hektoliter (old measure) barley seeds and 5,8 hl potatoes (about 2 sacks) were used for crop. Ellingsen was one of the first in the community to turn the soil and seed it, using about 20 kg of grass seeds.
Under Ellingsen and his wife, Ida’s, management, this farm became a mansion, named Storgården. Their wealth was spent on running an amazing household to an aristocratic level. (Read the detailed story in Bøfjærding 98). The lady had no less than 5 servants as Ellingsen was a very kindhearted and generous person. Due to his leadership, Hovden, as a trading post, became well known throughout the entire country.
| 
|
As often happens, when one spend more than earnings allow, finances became an issue and this generous man ended up with both money worries and an unhappy love life. His wife seemed to spend all too much time with one privately hired teacher. This burden became too much to handle for Ellingsen and he developed mental illness in his final years. His business went bankrupt approximately year 1890.
THE “FISHING-FARMER” (Combined income)
It was not solely the landowners who got ahead during these times of riches. Even the average folks improved their lifestyle. They could afford to buy better boats and accessories, like nets and floats, and also had the means to upgrade their housing. Some even started painting their homes, something that was normally reserved for wealthy people at the time. Living conditions improved greatly from the beginning of the 1800’s.
Towards the end of the century both fishermen and farmers became self sufficient. The lease holders and settlers could afford to buy their land and housing. In the 1820’s, the potato became an important part of the food chain, which improved nourishment tremendously. Many deadly childhood diseases vanished and in turn, many more children grew up healthy and the population increased very rapidly.
From 1870, cod fisheries were the main source of income for the residents. Particularly good years occurred from 1882 – 1885, when there were close to 300 fishermen taking part in the winter fisheries in Hovden. The peak was reached in 1894, when 325 fishermen, divided on 33 boats, using nets and 30 boats using “tine” (wooden lobster pots). They were using 10 and 8 oar boats. The highest quantity of fish delivered was 390 000 codfish in 1892!
Jenny Nygård grew up in Hovden at the end of the 18th, early 19th century and she recalls (quote). “I remember the winter fisheries clearly, when all the boats arrived”.
There were 10 and 8 oars boats and smaller ones as well, in addition to the sailing vessels, which were bought for this purpose. The fleet from Eidsfjord often came together and it looked like a forest of sails entering from Nykan, going north. An entire choir, (Eidsfjord Mannskor), was part of the fishing crew. They used their skills during the fishing season, by entertaining at parties with their amazing voices.
These parties often took place at “Borgstua”, on the lower level of “Storgården”, where everyone danced to accordion music. In the summertime, these dances were often held outdoors, at Nonsvollen, which is close to where the water well to Heimgården was located. There were a multitude of people visiting Hovden at this time and some of them stayed on in this picturesque peninsula.”
| 
|
PROPERY OWNERS AND TRADERS IN THE 19th CENTURY
A joint venture acquired Hovden in 1893. The new owners were two brothers from Hamarøy, Bernard and Johan Normann and their brother in law, Mr.Ludvig T. Westgaard.
They managed the business together until 1914, but they never even came close to running the luxury mansion like the previous owner.
During their ownership, they refurbished the harbor area. An extensive pier was built around the west end of the harbor.
Heimgårdskaia and the Holmstø docks were constructed of rocks. These projects were completed by 1899. Hovden was also connected by telephone in 1892, with the help of Mr. L.T. Westgård, who covered the cost for the telephone cable from Straumsjøen to Hovden.
| 
|
The next owner of Hovden was Mr. Sigvart C. Andersen, who managed the area from 1914 – 1923. He was a politician and a member of council for one term.
In 1923 Rysst and Mogstad A/S purchased Hovden under the management of Mr. Harald Rysst and his wife Margit (maiden name Mogstad). Under their skilled leadership, Hovden flourished to new heights.
They renovated “Storgården” inspired by style and architecture they had seen during their travels. They had lived, for a brief period, in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The lady of the house had many servants on staff, both inside her house and in the barn. From the very start it was obvious that Harald Rysst had a different vision for Hovden’s development than the previous owners.
He was selling off land and housing to young families that had an interest in making Hovden their home.
| 
|
This company also ran a shop with a variety of goods and a fish factory. For a short time they also had a canning factory and a pelt farm. They constructed a larger docking area, Dampskipskaia, in 1930. Mr. Harald Rysst was active within the resistance movement during World War II, and therefore had to escape to England with his family. The shop did well until the 1950’s when the dynasty started to fall apart and in 1956, they declared bankruptcy.
Eventually, Hovden’s own “sons” started trying their hands in the business world. In 1947, Mr. Odd Berg Hanssen built his own store in the Malnes area, in obvious competition with the other, more well-known shop. In the long run it showed two stores in such a small place were not profitable and in 1956 Berg-Hanssen had to declare bankruptcy. Odd was also very active in politics and he held a country seat from 1946 -1951 and served as a member of council from 1952 – 1955. He also contributed to the community by taking on various other important positions.
Mr. Trygve Nygård acquired the post office and grocery store in Hovden shortly after Rysst and Mogstad A/S went bankrupt. Initially, he ran his store in the old location in Hovden, but later moved in to Odd Berg Hanssen’s vacant place at Malnes. Trygve served the area as a postmaster and store owner for over 30 years.
In 1958, Mr. Jarle Evensen purchased the bankrupt business. He eventually built a modern fish factory, with a filet section and larger boats. People from the entire community worked for him on land and at sea. He also acquired companies from other regions in Lofoten and Vesterålen and built a large fish factory at Eidet. However, shop keeping or farming was not his priority. Neither was the interest in preserving the historic sites. The old and distinguished buildings were torn down, including the fishermen’s cabins at Holmen.
The site where “Storgården” once adorned, gave way for a very modern villa with swimming pool and a green house. Under his management he arranged the development of a new, modernized pier, making this harbor one of the best in the region of Vesterålen.
| 
|
COMMUNITY LEADERSHIP
The first few records, after the enforcing of council in 1837, were lost during a fire. However, from the early 1860’s we have names of people, elected for council. The first one registered was Mr. Anton C. Isaksen, Malnes (1860 – 1862), followed by Mr. Johannes Larsen, Malnes (1863 – 1864). Later, Mr. Johan B. Ellingsen, Hovden who served several terms from 1860 into the 70’s and 80’s.
In the 1890’s Mr. Isak Antonsen was elected in 1897 – 98, Mr.Ludvik Westgaard, from Hovden (1902 -1910), Mr. Ludvig Wiik (1926 – 28), Mr. Sigvart C. Andersen Rysst (1920 – 22), Mr. Andreas Wiik (1926 – 28), Mr. Bertram Evensen (1929 – 40), Mr. Karl Wiik (1935 – 37) and Mr. Odd Berg Hanssen (1946 -55)
These were all people with very different political views, but with one common purpose, to work for the best interest of their community. Other than the names mentioned above, there were many other people serving the community at different levels, all too many to mention here.
STRUCTURAL CHANGES
Particularly after the World War I, we see signs of changes within the property structure. The proprietors started to divide the acreage towards Hovdehauan in the early 1920’s. The same scenario happened for Skifte and Malnes, where several farms of about 10 to 20 da (old measure) were parceled out. These small areas had the ability to feed a couple of cows and a few sheep and give enough potatoes for a family.
After the war and into the early 50’s, there were approximately 50 cows within the farming community of Hovden and Malnes. The farmers did not need the pasture in order to provide feed for their cattle. There were still some people living in the fisherman’s cabins at Holmen, until 1950, and at Heimgården even as late as the 60’s. Some of these residents had both cows and sheep, and still depended on Frugga as a feed lot.
The population grew rapidly in this timeframe and peaked after the war, reaching 250 people. To meet the demand of this kind of growth, the whole area of Nonsvollen was made available as building sites. Many of the farmers from the 20’s and 30’s retired and divided their land to make lots available for their sons and daughters that might want to settle in the area.
The fishing fleet had changed tremendously, both in size and shape. In the late 1800’s, the sailboats were still the preferred choice. 10 and 8 oar boats were most common, but 4 oar and 6 oar (trerømming) were used as well. These vessels were about 30 – 50 feet.
The very smallest one was the four-oar (færing or kjeksen), used for fishing close to land and short trips. For a short time period, sailboats with decking were used. Then the engine was invented and they began installing them into the slender “Nordlandsbåten” The very first motorized boat came to Hovden in 1910, soon to be followed by many more. By today’s standard, these vessels were not impressive, but at that point it was an amazing advancement. To sail was one thing, but to avoid rowing was a miracle!
| 
|
Within three decades, the proud “Nordlandsbåten” was almost vanished from the fishing areas. Bigger and better motorized boats were built and some up to 50 -60 feet, were purchased in the 50’s. Despite the modern fishing boats, recruiting for fisheries failed. The young generation found other means of making a living and moved away from home. The direction of society often takes unexpected turns…
THE PEOPLE OF HOVDEN STAND TOGETHER AS A SOLID UNION
Many very important issues were solved and materialized between 1920 and 1960. The first huge project was the roadway through the area. The construction was done by volunteer effort in the 1920’s. The extension of the road through Tussen and south were completed as emergency work in 1930. The last section of the road was finally completed in the fall of 1954. A new school was built in 1928. Earlier on, all schooling was done in Borgstua in Storgården. With a fire destroying this location, some of the interior from the old Malnes Church, kept in Storgården, was lost in addition to the loss of classroom space.
Repairs and upgrading had to be done at the pier in the 20’s and 30’s.
Although electricity had been available by own generators at the fish factory, it only became commonly available in 1952, when the first electrical cable was connected and thus gave light to every home in the area.
A youth club, The Seagull (Måsen) was established in 1922. A community hall was built in Malnes in 1938, but it burnt down in 1951. Another new and much bigger one was constructed at Skiftesanden in 1957. The youth club had their own amateur theatre, good sportsmen and in the 30’s and 40’s, a very strong soccer team. Eventually, the soccer field by the graveyard became too small and a new one was made, in accordance with international measuring guide lines. When completed in 1955, it measured up as one of the best soccer fields in Vesterålen.
An independent church group built a new chapel in Malnes which was initiated in 1956. A major volunteer effort was necessary in order to accomplish all these major projects. There was barely enough money to cover cost of materials. It was often just a few, very determined people behind this effort, but they managed to get everyone involved for a common cause. The same joint effort was necessary when starting work on the water reservoir in the 1960’s. The ability to work together on common goals became a distinctive characteristic of the people in Hovden. The quarrels at Malnes marshland had not caused any lasting ill effect or “bad blood” amongst the different settlements. The descendants of the past generation made peace. They married across the families and lived as good neighbors.
The marshland eventually ran out of good peat and the area was cultivated. The residents of both Malnes and Hovden had to look elsewhere for land suitable for peat that could fill the demand for heating supplies. The marshland of Sund, Haugen and Rymyra became the solution, although farther away and requiring boats for transport. Once again, the Malnes and Hovden people worked side by side.
When the peat was to be stacked, they stood strong, shoulder to shoulder against the side of the boat, backs tight against the wood. At the chorus cry of the commander, deep manly voices sang out, “ – Å, ta i tak! (Take a good grip!) Å hååå! Å setti-ja-, sætti ja! (Put it down!) Å hååå!”
This was the approximate sound of the harmonized choir of “Hovdeværingan” in Heimgårds støa (docking area for boats).
Hard work became almost like play with the united effort of such a large group.
|
